Mussels from Yerseke

Mussel farming is older than Yerseke's oyster industry: it dates back to the fifteenth century. Today the country's entire mussel trade converges here, at the Netherlands' only mussel auction, checked and controlled by the Mosselkantoor.

Where does mussel seed come from, and how does it grow into a Zeeland mussel?

Mussel seed is fished from the Wadden Sea and then scattered on plots in the Oosterschelde, where the mussels keep growing until they're ready for the auction.

So the mussel that eventually lands on the table has already made a journey before it ever reaches the Yerseke auction floor: born in the Wadden Sea, raised in the Oosterschelde. Mussel farming itself dates back to the fifteenth century, which makes it one of the oldest forms of shellfish farming in this part of Zeeland — older than the oyster pits, older even than most of the buildings that now line the harbour.

Why does Yerseke have the Netherlands' only mussel auction?

Yerseke is home to the Netherlands' only mussel auction. Fishermen from neighbouring fishing villages bring their catch here too, to be auctioned alongside the local haul.

That central position is no accident. For centuries the village built its trading network, expertise and infrastructure around both the mussel and the oyster at the same time, which naturally made it the gathering point for the whole sector. Buy mussels anywhere in the Netherlands today, and there's a very good chance they passed through Yerseke first.

What does the Mosselkantoor do?

The Mosselkantoor checks the quality of every mussel offered in Yerseke, including imports. Only after that inspection may they be sold.

That inspection applies without exception: every mussel that crosses the auction floor has been through the Mosselkantoor first. For buyers, that's a reassurance not every shellfish sector in the world can offer — nothing here gets resold simply because it happened to turn up in the harbour.

Can an imported mussel carry the name “Zeeland mussel”?

Yes: imported mussels may be called “Zeeland mussels” once traders have stored them in what are known as wet warehouses in the Oosterschelde.

That might sound like a loophole, but it's exactly how it's regulated, and we'd rather explain it plainly than leave it unsaid: a mussel that grew up somewhere else earns the label “Zeeland” once it has spent time in the water of the Oosterschelde. The wet warehouses are as much a quality step as a matter of provenance paperwork.

How does the voluntary auction obligation work, and what is the reserve price?

All suppliers stick to a voluntary auction obligation: the mussel price is set at the auction itself. Below the so-called reserve price, mussels aren't sold but bought up by the Mosselfonds.

In the five years to 2009, the auction price rose from 95 euros per 100 kilograms in 2005 to 180 euros in 2009 — a doubling that shows how directly supply and demand translate into price here. Mussels that would otherwise fall below the reserve price are bought by the Mosselfonds instead. They're stored in the Oosterschelde and sold anyway in December, with the proceeds flowing back into the fund, giving the sector a bit of protection against a bad year.

Where does Yerseke's mussel export go?

Around 65 percent of mussel exports go to Belgium, 23 percent to France. The rest stays in the Netherlands or goes to other countries.

Figures from 2009 show how large the sector was at the time: about 50 mussel farmers with 56 vessels, landings of around 46 million kilograms worth 56 million euros, and imports worth 27 million euros. Since 2005, annual landings have fluctuated between 30 and 58 million kilograms — a range that shows how sensitive this sector remains to weather, water and nature.

How did people fish for mussels in the past: what were the hoogaars and the hengst?

In the past, mussel fishing was done with small sailing vessels, the hoogaars and the hengst. Today, modern ships with advanced navigation equipment do the work.

That shift from sail to engine, from compass to navigation system, changed the trade but not its rhythm: the tide of the Oosterschelde still decides when a mussel boat puts to sea. Alongside oysters and mussels, lobster is fished here too, incidentally — a smaller story, but one that shows just how rich the Oosterschelde is as a fishing ground. For the bigger story behind that richness, and the decline that followed it, read about the Zeeland Klondike.

Key facts at a glance

Mussel chain terms explained

Mussel seed

Young mussels, fished from the Wadden Sea and scattered on plots in the Oosterschelde to keep growing.

Mosselkantoor

The body that checks the quality of every mussel at the Yerseke auction, including imports, before they may be sold.

Wet warehouses

Storage sites in the Oosterschelde where traders keep imported mussels; afterwards they may be sold as “Zeeland mussel”.

Reserve price

The floor price below which mussels aren't sold but bought up by the Mosselfonds and offered again in December.

Hoogaars and hengst

Traditional small sailing vessels once used for mussel fishing, now replaced by modern ships.